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Travel Blog: Walking Around DunedinPublished on Jan 31, 2008 by Timsaunders |
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1. Chapter: Where To Begin |
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Dunedin is often called the most Scottish city outside Scotland - it lies almost at the bottom of New Zealand. Its close proximity to Antarctica means there is almost always a chill in the air, and I have never seen it when it is not blanketed by grey clouds. But it is a beutiful city, with a dark sort of architecture, and a student population that makes its own sunshine. The locals all have a wonderful accent with which they roll their "Rs", so words like "thirteen" become "thirrrrteen", like they want to expectorate something large and horrid from the back of their throats. A while ago, when it wasn't actually raining (but looked like it should have been), I decided to go for a bit of a walk around the central city, to take in the buildings. I started at the Ocagon, the city square (ok, not a square exactly, but you get the idea), the heart of the cold township. I had two guidebooks with me, and both recommended that I visit the Law Courts. However, on arriving, I found that the buildings weren't open to the public and never had been. So I threw away the books and headed out on my own. This is what I saw. Tags for this Travel Blog Chapter: city cold rain |
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2. Chapter: St Paul's Cathedral |
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To one side of the Octagon is a statue of Robert Burns, the Scottish poet. Black and covered in bird poo, he stands proudly reciting his undeciperable poems to a crowd that consists of an office worker having her lunch, a young girl chasing pigeons, and a couple having a snog. But if he could turn his head, I'm sure his eyes would rise to the same place I was looking - St Paul's Cathedral. Built in the early 1900s in a beutifully gothic style, a broad concrete staircase leads to its massive doors. It is certainly one of my favourite examples of architecture in the city, although not as impressive on the inside. The twin spires seem to pierce the ever present clouds, and the high vaulted ceiling sings a hymn of stone to the heavens. Tags for this Travel Blog Chapter: church |
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3. Chapter: Dunedin Art Gallery |
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Still on the Octagon, near St Paul's Cathedral, is the Dunedin Public Art Gallery. Although it appears to blend in with the gothic and grey architecture on the outside, the inside of the gallery is bright and modern. Wooden floors reflect light from the high ceiling, and its collection of art is rivalled only by its collection of interesting-looking art lovers. Although I like taking in buildings and landscapes and art, I love watching people, and the Dunedin Public Art Gallery is one of the best places to do this. I saw all sorts making their way past the sculptures and paintings, regarding each one in a way that you could tell they didn't have any idea what they were actually looking at. Long, coloured hair, bright trousers of purple and green, impossibly small granny glasses perched precariously on the tips of long slender noses - stereotypes abounded in this worthy art gallery. And it is free to enter, as well! Tags for this Travel Blog Chapter: art people |
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4. Chapter: The Municipal Chambers |
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Although it has undergone a lot of restoration over the last few years, the Municipal Chambers in Dunedin still look grotty. Situated on the Octagon, and made from the wonderful white rock sourced locally and called Oamaru Sandstone, it seems as if the building is trying to blend in a little too well with the other grey buildings. Grime now covers the white stone, giving the place a cold, dirty look, like an innercity apartment building. The building is actually home of the visitor centre, a large and rambling affair, full of brochure racks that have seen better days. The floor is covered with leaflets that have been blown from their perches when someone opened the door. Even the staff seem flustered, and one disappeared for her lunchbreak halfway through serving me. Also in the building is the Council Chambers, where the local government makes decisions not to clean the outside of the building, and the town hall is behind it all. Tags for this Travel Blog Chapter: informationcentre |
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5. Chapter: The First Church |
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The same man who designed the Municipal Chambers, Robert Lawson, also designed the first church in Dunedin - which is now called First Church. It lies on Moray Street, and, quite honestly, it looks like a rocket ship. Tall and straight, the spire stabs at heaven like a dagger. It must certainly be a danger to passing seagulls. Built in 1873, the First Church is something I always love to see, and I really urge anyone who is in Dunedin to track it down. Its massive stained glass window lights the interior only partially, so that the corners are shadowy and full of myths and legends. The silence found within is only broken by the creaking of wood, and a gentle sea breeze reminds the timbers that they could have been made into a ship. Outside, weeping trees bow their heads in worship, and a well-kept cemetery reminds visitors of the people who built the city. It really is a wonderfully sacred and stirring place. Tags for this Travel Blog Chapter: church |
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6. Chapter: Otago Early Settlers Museum |
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From the outside, the Otago Early Settlers Museum looks exactly like what it used to be - a bus station. The building is square and unmemorable, but it is worth entering through the glass doors and exploring the interior. Inside the museum I found I had to shield my eyes from the glare. Lights shone brightly over the orange flooring and red carpet, reminding me of something ripped straight out of the 1970s. But decor aside, the museum is an interesting trip into Dunedin's past. The museum leads visitors through what Dunedin used to be like. Examples of clothes that date back to the mid-1800s (all of which are clearly designed to deal with the cold) line the walls, and items ranging from household appliances to tools are on display. There are cars that date back to the dawn of automobiles, and two massive steam trains dominate the transport section. It is interesting to note that the museum was first opened in 1898... It only takes an hour to visit, and only costs $4. Tags for this Travel Blog Chapter: museum |
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