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Travel Tip: Sauðárkrókur - Grettislaug

Published on 01:55pm 08/16/2007 by penmaiden about Saudarkrokur (Sauðárkrókur)

If you ever undertake to drive from Reykjavik to the north of Iceland, you'll probably wind up taking Route 1, or the 'Ring Road' as it's known. It’s a beautiful drive of breathtaking scenery - and, if you’ve got the time, you’d be daft not to take a little detour and visit the hotpots of Grettislaug, just beyond the little town of Sauðárkrókur.
While finding Sauðárkrókur itself was simple, finding the rough track that boastfully calls itself Route 748 is rather harder. Only some canny directions from my travel-mate kept us on course. 20km of dusty, gravel-strewn road was tempered by spectacular coastline unveiling itself on our right. Drangey Island, flanked by its sentinel rock-pillar, Kerlingen ('the Old Woman') makes a striking silhouette against the sky.
Don't be put off by closed gates barring the way; they are there to keep the sheep in, not tourists out.
To our disappointment, Grettislaug isn’t quite as hidden as we’d hoped. We were tailed all the way by a busload of tourists making an evening trip - but even their noisy, naked presence couldn't mar the beauty of our surroundings. The hotpots stand in a little rocky enclosure, flanked by sea and snow-capped mountains on one side and towering slopes on the other. A black sand beach nestles in a nearby bay, and a gentle stroll along it was the perfect way to pass the time until the ‘others’ departed.
At last we were alone! Alas, the first pool, which Nature seemed so sweetly to have built just for two, proved a disappointment. Not only was the water tepid, mud and lichen was quickly stirred by our feet. However, the second, larger hotpot was a dream! Beautifully hot and clean, the waist-deep water eased every taut muscle and banished all cares. We wallowed in bliss, sighing with pleasure over the incredible vista, until our skin was prune-like.
Afterwards we headed back into Sauðárkrókur and booked ourselves into Iceland's oldest hotel: Hotel Tindastóll. It was rather lovely. Our double-twin room (2 double beds) was all wood and rustic charm, with satellite television adding a modern touch. Dinner was not available, but the helpful and friendly manageress pointed us in the direction of Ólafshús where we ate good pizza for 1450kr each.
Sauðárkrókur itself has little of note, and is really just a place to pass through. But it does have its own charm. The harbour is striking, if grubby in parts, and the brightly coloured houses lend the place great cheer. Great racks of drying fish are quite a sight to behold, and the dramatic coastline quite takes the breath away.

Tags for this Travel Tip: beautiful-scenery hotpools hotel

Grettislaug Hot...