People in the cooking world tend to get a little bit too obsessed with newfangled ideas. We’ve all seen it: a restaurant that serves foam on top of everything, another that deconstructs every dish down to the point where you’re basically assembling your own meal… sometimes a restaurant needs to stick to the classics.
Brown is a prime example: they’re so close to being a top-notch Italian restaurant… the quality is there, but the pricing and some of the plating decisions are confusing, and the waiters are cold, especially for what is usually such a friendly country.
I understand small plates… I love small plate and mezze meals. I fell in love with tapas when I was in Barcelona. But Brown is not a tapas bar, which is why I still have trouble understanding why my friend was served four small wedges of potatoes next to his steak that was advertised as a steak frites. They were delicious fries, but the fact that they would rather arrange four in a square to make a pretty presentation instead of giving the customer what he thought he ordered is a bit baffling.
I had pasta, which was delicious… still a bit on the small side, but then again, American dishes are too large. Just a few nudges in the right direction would make this stellar, but as is, it’s just OK. [more]
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